My Thoughts On Sofia, Bulgaria

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Arriving in Sofia, Bulgaria from Athens, Greece was no ordinary “simple train ride”. We know how Greece’s economic status has affected the tourism and transportation infrastructure, so what used to be a smooth “simple train ride” is now a day an overnight train ride with two bus connections.  Not bad, I have to say.

During the long journey, I could see how the warm Mediterranean landscape of Greece slowly turned into a still Mediterranean landscape but mixed and blended with snow-capped mountains, forests, rich patchworks of green and brown fields, and numerous small towns with clusters of red roofs.

Once I arrived at the city of “wisdom” (In Greek, the word “Sofia” means wisdom. Sofia was named in the 14th century after the basilica St. Sofia), I could clearly see the dichotomy of its communist past and the modern lifestyle the city has worked so hard to achieve.

Sofia’s streets are lined with mile after crumbling mile of communist multi-story apartment buildings, yet, little spots of beauty and modern life pop up here and there with a few chic cafes, cell-phone shops, a few shiny skyscrapers, and of course, a lot of McDonald’s.

Sofia might lack some of the urban aspects many major European cities boast, yet finding a free wifi signal with impeccable speed while walking on the streets leave cities like Paris, Berlin, and Rome looking like amateur kids.

These are the things that make Eastern European cities even more interesting.  It is the contrast of the run-down post-communist cities vs. the phenomenon of spotty progress and modern development and the few injections of ancient history.

In my opinion, for its 2,000+ years of history, Sofia has little to show. Aside from the 4th-century Rotunda of Sveti Georgi –Sofia’s oldest structure– most of the city’s historic buildings date no earlier than the 18th and 19th century.

There’s also the Ivan Vasov National Theatre, the Sofia Mineral Baths, the Alexander Nevski Cathedral (probably one of the most beautiful buildings in Sofia), the Saint Nikolas Russian Church, and the Sofia Central Synagogue, various archeological sites sprinkled through the city and under or in “modern” buildings, among many other sights worth seeing.

While the list of buildings might look comprehensive and interesting, these show only microcosmic spots of history in such a large span of development.

But Sofia’s attraction does not lie in checking off a list of must-see sites. Rather, Sofia’s charm lies in wandering its streets at will, checking the city parks, enjoying the cafes, and watching the “new European life” unfold, challenging the notions of its oriental roots.

One of my favorite (and weirdest) places in Sofia was my hostel (Orient Express Hostel).  Quite honestly, it didn’t feel like I was staying at a hostel; it felt like I was crashing at some random apartment housing an illegal Russian commune.  It was awkward, it was dysfunctional, it was crazy, it was hard to understand, it was fun… it was an experience… it was Sofia being Sofia.

Something I found really interesting in Sofia was the conglomerate of religious buildings – all of different denominations – and how the architectural quality of the buildings reflected their religion.

Here you can have a beautiful Byzantine-style basilica, contrasted by an Ottoman-style mosque, contrasted by a Russian-styled church, and even further contrasted by a Jewish synagogue further down the street.

To me, in terms of sightseeing, this was the highlight of Sofia. Those few buildings (among a few other sights) clearly show how Bulgaria’s geographical position in the heart of the Balkans has strongly influenced its culture, architecture, customs, and traditions.

This influence is based not only on trades with European and Asian neighbors but also from the historical rules of different empires and governments.

Sofia might be a city that has reinvented itself many times, bringing something different and fresh every time (though not necessarily positive all the time… hello, communism!).  In my opinion, it is a testament to the veracity of the city’s motto: “Grows but never ages.” Now, it’s time for me to explore beyond Sofia, as there’s more to do and see in Bulgaria!