Pura Vida in La Fortuna

I have wanted to go to Costa Rica for many years but for some reason I never visited it until last week.  One of the things that really draw me to this country is the wide range of activities and natural adventures that take advantage of Costa Rica’s unspoiled ecosystem.  I admit it; I’m such a sucker for adrenaline stuff… So, after delaying this visit for so long, I decided to jump over there and experience first hand what all my friends and family have been amazed about and have told me on countless stories.

Once in Costa Rica, the first thing I decided to do was walk around the town of Alajuela while I waited for my bus to take me to La Fortuna – my main destination on this trip. Alajuela is roughly 30 minutes away from San Jose Downtown, by public bus. This rural town is full of local restaurants and shops, small houses and guesthouses. After roaming around for a while – honestly there is not much to see and walking around is not the safest thing to do since they barely have sidewalks on some of its streets – I decided to taste my first Costa Rican food. Restaurante Calalu, in Alajuela, does a tasty and well-seasoned Pollo a la Plancha (grilled chicken), with French fries, home made tortillas, and Patti (kinda spicy).  Yumm!!

Most buildings in this area are made of wood, masonry, and zinc ceilings. Gosh, I hate zinc ceiling on rainy days.  The rainy season in Costa Rica is a SERIOUS rainy season. It rains EVERYDAY (from May to July) and it rains like there’s no tomorrow.  It rained so hard that you could barely hear your thoughts due to the strong sound made as the rain poured over the zinc ceiling (arghh, so loud… I think I need new eardrums!).

Now, I’m ready to take my 4 hours bus ride to La Fortuna.  I swear, either Costa Ricans are the most talented “reckless” drivers or they are the worst drivers under normal standards… you be the judge.  Countless times I felt like the bus was going to tip over and fall off the cliff.  Can you believe that we passed by not one but TWO tipped over trailers?  Jesus – does this mean that narrow streets + cliffs + trailers + high speed + rain, doesn’t match?  Who would have thought of that?! Adding to the excitement of this unusual ride, suddenly the driver decided to hitchhike a policeman and started yelling “Llego la ley” – here is the law.  What the… But, apparently this is common here.

Once I got to La Fortuna the first thing I saw on the distance was the dark shape of the behemoth Arenal Volcano backlit by the sunset.  Wow, La Fortuna is a HOT place to be, yes, not only figuratively but also literally. The Arenal Volcano has been so active (more than the usual) during the past few weeks that its recurrent eruptions make the whole town feel like a sauna. This place will make you sweat!  Actually, due to the volcano activity, the weather in this town has a peculiar microclimate behavior. Mornings are spectacularly sunny while afternoons are soaked with torrential rains. (Warning, Science Content: The heat of the volcano evaporates the humidity in the air and it slowly accumulates as cloud forms on top of the elevation and surroundings.  After around 2pm – when the heat is intense – the humidity saturation turns into torrential rain and cools down the area.  Repeat next day.)  So, “early birds”, this is your place.

I spent the next couple days fulfilling my “need” for adrenaline rush.  I tried everything I could, walked wherever possible, jumped, slipped, and slid from everywhere I was allowed, and even got some bruises on the way. Better yet, what didn’t I do?  In my opinion, some of the best things to do here in La Fortuna are Canyoning (I recommend Desafio Costa Rica, they’re awesome and really professional!), Canopy (but if going to Monteverde, Canopy there is a must), Spelunking in Venado Caves, Whitewater Rafting at Toro River, and who can miss the Arenal Volcano Hike where you could have the chance to see lava.  All these activities are done in natural habitats so don’t be surprise – or DO be surprised – when suddenly a monkey – sloth, bat, snake, etc – passes right next to you.

While doing all my activities in La Fortuna, I was constantly reminded that I was right next to an active volcano.  You can hear this volcano rumble a few times a day and even see its rock lava flow – best viewed from the south side during the night.  When doing the Volcano Hike, I also did the Hot Springs.  There was no better way to end an active day than with a relaxing natural hot bath.  Even there, I had some action with their thermal water slides – and just so you know, they’re amazing but kind of rough.

The Venado Caves Spelunking is not well known in the area, but if you’re willing to spend some time underground on small spaces and surrounded by bats and spiders; then this is a must for you.  At first I thought this was going to be a nice cave sightseeing, but it ended being way better than what I expected.  You actually do some real spelunking and pass through really tight tunnels and chambers.  I’m small and flexible, and I had a hard time passing through some of them.

A good thing to do on your own is visit La Fortuna Waterfall.  It’s 5km from the town.  The distance is “walkable” (but, I don’t recommend walking it, since it is steep and with the heat… well, the heat will make you want to jump straight into the water as soon as you get there!!).  This waterfall is an amazing sight, and dipping into its cold-clear water feels even better. This comes from a guy that hates cold water!

As you can see, La Fortuna is filled with amazing natural features and activities.  If you’re into adrenaline, this is your place to go.  And even if you’re looking to have a laid back and relaxed trip, there are dozens of passive eco-friendly activities available.  If you want to know more about things to do in Costa Rica, check out my previous post on Costa Rica’s Eco-Adventures. No matter what you do here, make sure you have a good time and Pura Vida – Pure Life – as Costa Ricans like to say.

So, Pura Vida!